Local Flavor- Giumarello’s

As much as I like to dine while traveling, one still has their favorites close to home. And if I’m going to have kind things to say about restaurants abroad, I would be remiss if I did not give similar accolades to those establishments I enjoy locally.  Without a doubt for me and my girlfriend, that place is Giumarrello’s. Granted we may be a little biased as this was where our first date took place but I was already aware of how good Giumarrello’s was at that point. I can simply sum up why in four points, a fantastic cocktail list, an excellent menu, great atmosphere, a pleasant and attentive staff.

The restaurant has a low lit yet very warm atmosphere that, along with the staff, is very welcoming. There is a mix of seating with reserved tables, first come/first serve tables, and a large seated bar area. There is outdoor seating available and a selection of tables in both the reserved and first come/first serve areas are perfect for people watching, if that is something one enjoys.

 

One of the reasons my girlfriend and I quite enjoy this establishment is their cocktail menu. While they have an equally extensive wine and beer list, it is definitely the variety and quality of their cocktails that keep us coming back. Of the many you can pick from, two have become my regular go to cocktails. The first is the Vesper Martini (pictured left). If you have seen the Bond movie “Casino Royal” with Daniel Craig, then this may sound familiar to you. The martini uses both gin and vodka along with a little something extra to make this a very smooth Martini with just a little bite. They make if perfect every time. As good as that cocktail is, it has recently garnered some tough competition in the Dubliner (pictured right, nearly finished). This whiskey cocktail is very flavorful, balanced, and beyond smooth. There is definitely something for everyone on their cocktail list.

 

As good as the drinks are, the food is even better. The menu has an excellent mix of steaks, seafood, and Italian dishes along with interesting appetizers and decadent desserts. Both the oysters and the shrimp pancetta have been regular favorites of mine to start off with. On this recent visit, I opted for the wild mushroom bisque and I was not disappointed. For my main course, I got the bone in ribeye “Cowboy” steak medium. I don’t eat steak that much at home and actually don’t order it out much either. Every time I get steak here, it is cooked to perfection, and this was no exception. I can’t say I have one favorite dish from their main courses. I try to not order the same thing every time I’m there and they have all been outstanding.

As I mentioned before, the staff is impeccable. They are attentive and polite without being overbearing. The waitstaff has their timing in that regard down pat and the waitstaff and kitchen have their timing down to a science. Any mistakes are corrected or otherwise addressed. Honestly, I’ve only encountered one and even then it was brought to my attention by the waiter without me even noticing it first. One nice touch is that the manager is very present and aware. Each time we go, he has always stopped by the table to ask how our meal was. Always pleasant, he seems earnest to here what one has to say.

If I were to have any criticism of the restaurant, I would say the parking. The parking is a mix of self park and free valet, however there seems to very little self parking. On many nights only the valet seems available and as one who carries very little cash, I feel awkward not having anything to tip valet. Perhaps I bear some responsibility in that regard? While it would be nice to have more self parking spots, I’m not sure they have anywhere to put the additional spots.

Despite that one area of criticism, it does not impact my view of Giumarello’s at all. I feel this restaurant hits all the marks and if you live in the area of Haddon Township, NJ this restaurant should be on your list.

Boston- Food, Fenway, Friendship, and METAL!

This was certainly not my first foray to Bean town. It’s a city that thanks to one of my best friends Brian Haley I’ve explored multiple times. One of the many things I like about Boston is that it has so much to offer but is not so large it becomes daunting. It has history, great restaurants, and a great public transportation system that allows you to easily go all over the city. This was one of those three day whirlwind trips (not my first) Brian and I planned out many months ago centered around seeing one of our favorite metal bands, Anthrax. As usual, there was much more than just the concert.

My train arrived at 1:15pm on a Saturday and Brian was there to meet me at South Station. Our hotel, The Verb, was close by and we were quickly checked. Definitely a different hotel. The hotel has a music theme to it. A small area of great music memorabilia and a small record library available to guests as each room is furnished with a record player. If you are looking for something like the Four Seasons, this may not be the place for you. Parking is a flat fee of $48.00 (not nightly/daily) which for city parking is phenomenal per my friend Brian. It is also located right next to Fenway and around the block from House of Blues where Anthrax was playing making things quite convenient. If you are looking for a place that is a lot of fun with friendly, helpful staff, and you don’t mind a sign with a large guy who looks like Chris Barron from the Spin Doctors, then this maybe right up your alley.

Being the gentleman that Brian is, we had a couple rounds of McCallan that he brought for the weekend. We quickly headed out and started an unplanned bar crawl of the Fenway area bars. Unfortunately, we neglected to pace ourselves not acknowledging we are no longer in our early twenties. After a brief break back at the hotel, we decided to hit The Citizen Public House and Oyster Bar. I rarely say “no” to oysters. The darkly lit but warm decor was perfect for our last stop of the night. The food was excellent with a wide selection of savory choices but nothing too out of the ordinary. After starting with a round of oysters, I went with the safe choice of their cheeseburger. It was quite good despite being a common menu item. Flavorful, juicy, and cooked to order. We rounded out the meal by sharing some bread pudding, as any hardcore heavy metal fans would do. However, the star of the evening was their Manhattan (hopefully you are not sensing a pattern to my blog articles). I’m quite a fan of both Gin Martinis and Manhattans and this was by far the best cocktail of that ilk I’ve had. I simply let the waiter surprise me with his choice of bourbon from their vast selection and viola, perfection. His choice was Basil Hayden’s small batch bourbon from Clermont Kentucky. It was the perfect balance of sweet combined with the slight bite of bourbon.

The next day, after breakfast, we decided to take a tour of Fenway Park. I highly recommend this if you have the chance. Even if you are not a baseball fan, there is a lot of history here. Some well known, some not so much. While they have replaced many of the original seats, there are still sections under the 2nd level that still have the original seats from when it first opened in 1912. The view from the seats atop The Green Monster is quite good and to me is worth a return trip to see a game from up there. You have the lone red seat commemorating when unsuspecting fan Joseph A. Boucher survived Ted William’s record 502 foot dinger.  The prior owner’s Thomas A. Yawkey and Jean R. Yawkey names in Morse Code on the left field scoreboard which is where they used to have picnics and listen to the Red Sox away games. It was also a great surprise to see that they have created Fenway Farms where they grow produce on the roof to supply the stadium food services.  A very well done and informative tour.

Before we knew it, it was time to get to the show. We arrived early as I had surprised Brian by getting the VIP meet and greet before the show. It is something I’ve wanted to do and I knew Brian being an even bigger fan that I would enjoy it. One might get exaggerated images of backstage passes and partying with the band but that is not the case. There was a pretty large group who had gotten the package and it was well organized for the most part. It was also pretty quick but I think it rather had to be. I can only imagine how many fans they meet and sign autographs for before each show and this was the last show of their American tour. Even still, they were very down to earth, very appreciative of their fans. In particular, Joey Belladonna seem to really light up when I told him how great it was to see him back with the band.

Anthrax shared co-billing with Killswitch Engage and they had two opening bands in The Devil Wears Prada and Code Orange. All the bands put on a great show and put out their all.  However, Brian and I were there to see Anthrax and we were not disappointed. Their set was intense and they played a great mix of old and new songs. Joey’s vocals are still amazing after all these years and their energy has not diminished one bit. It’s been 26 years since I first saw them and they still do not let down their fans. The mosh pits were still fierce and despite some minor aches and pains post show, I was please to know I could still hang in the pit. And just when you thought the intensity could not get any higher, they hit the war dance part of “Cry for the Indians”, their closing song, and the floor went insane. Just of sea of bodies moving like a tidal wave. Thankfully I had the big man Brian to help keep me vertical. It was great to see that even though those in the pits are much younger than Brian and I, they are still very cool and maintain proper pit etiquette, helping up those who fall to the ground, and not making intentional moves to hurt people. On the funny end, I’ve always known I’m not as heavy as I look and it was once again confirmed here. In my still successful run at crowd surfing, Brian and the guy who tried to get me up dropped me and the security guard who got me at the front of the stage collapsed under me. Oops. Still quite a rush.

Boston. Just go there. You will have a great time no matter what you do. If you have the chance, take the Fenway tour if not take in a game. If you are fan of Metal, go see Anthrax. They put on a phenomenal show. You probably still have plenty of time but why wait?

Dansk Mjød Viking Blod

Despite the fact that, like many people, I favor certain beer types over others, I relish the opportunity to try new beers. However, it’s very rare that I come across something very new and different. Perhaps I just need to try harder, if my liver will allow me? So when I saw Dansk Mjød Viking Blod on the menu in Tucson and read its description, there was little chance I would not order it. Honestly, just on the name alone I would have ordered it. The menu described it as a “honey wine” and in reality it is definitely a mead. Mead is created by fermenting honey with water and sometimes with various fruits, spices, grains, or hops. This particular brew is from Denmark and consists of Honey, water, hops, dried hibiscus, and “various spices” per their website. The alcohol content of mead can be anywhere from 8% to over 20% with this weighing in at a very respectable 19%.

Sweeter beers are nothing new in this day and age however Viking Blod is intensely sweet which some may not appreciate. It feels thicker, almost like nectar, and there is
only a hint of carbonation. All of that combined with it’s high alcohol content makes for quite a different experience. Likely because as already covered, this is a mead and not a beer despite it being listed with other beers on the menu. I imagine that is intentional; that if it was listed under a “Mead” section, it might result in decrease sales. Personally, I greatly enjoyed Viking Blod and not just for the name. Not only is it very different, I found it to be not filling at all which I attribute to its minimal carbonation. So, if you ever see this (or other mead) listed on a beer menu, you want something very different, and you are not afraid to jump out of your comfort zone, definitely give this a try.

Confit de Lapin

The second night of our trip to Montreal we decided to check out the restaurants on Rue Crescent, the street recommended by our waiter the night before. We strolled the down the street checking out the bill of fare of the various eateries. As we happened upon the restaurant L’Autre Saison, we seemed to be fixed on their menu a bit longer. As the name conveys, it was indeed a French restaurant and my eye was fixed on one dish in particular.

However, neither of us were dressed for such a place, wearing very casual clothing of jeans and a long sleeved shirt. Regardless, the very kind waiter warmly invited us in to dine. I’ll be honest, I felt really underdressed for such a place. I commented as such to the waiter but he insisted that all was fine. The restaurant appeared very refined and seemed more apropos of a place I would be thrown out of rather than actually dining in. It consisted of a two level dining area, a pianist lightly regaling diners with classical music, and a highly detailed warm decor.

We started off with an appetizer of oysters, which apparently has become a requirement for me while in Canada. While they were indeed fantastic as usual, the real treat was the main course, Rabbit Confit. I’ve heard over and over from my mother how delicious rabbit is. My mother has told me numerous times about rabbit dishes prepared by her mother, my Babci (grandmother), from when they lived in Northern France. And even though my mother will no longer eat rabbit due to the cuteness factor, her description of it has long left me curious.

The dish itself was Confit de Lapin (rabbit confit). Once I saw it was on the menu, my mind was made up. Oddly enough, we had been to Southern France a few months earlier and did not see rabbit at any of the restaurants we dined at. So, at this juncture, there was no other option for me. Though I did not know it or care at the time, a trusty google search reveals that confit refers to meat cooked very slowly over a low heat in grease, oil, or sugar water. In this case, it was cooked in duck fat and was also stuffed. To this day, I don’t know what the stuffing was. It could have been a simple herb stuffing, it could have been sweetbreads, again I didn’t care. The end result was possibly the most delicious meat I have ever eaten. Tender, lean (very lean), immensely flavorful. It was simultaneously new and different, yet still familiar. It was like a cross between chicken and veal, only a thousand times better. Without a doubt the cooking of it in duck fat and the seasoning of the stuffing played a role in its flavor and yet I have no doubt it would have been equally delicious without those factors. Paired with a Cabernet Sauvignon, the meal was simply sublime. At the risk of developing rabbit starvation as well as making myself sick of it, I would eat this all the time.

Despite feeling underdressed and therefore out of place, everything about the meal was amazing. The service was attentive, polite, and perfectly timed. We were made to feel very welcome. About the only negative critique would be how they went over the wine list. The waiter would only list the wine by variety of grape (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, etc.) rather than present an actual wine list or a manner in which I could know the region and year. Perhaps they have a very small selection. Perhaps his visual appraisal of me led him to believe I knew nothing about wine, which really, I don’t. I just know a lot of catch phrases and such to give the appearance of knowledge. Regardless, that was not enough to ruin the meal and experience.

So, if you find yourself in Montreal and you want a great meal, a complex meal in a restaurant with great atmosphere, I highly recommend L’Autre Saison.

Amtrak- The Adirondack

Train travel, while far more utilized, invested in, and luxurious in other countries, does not enjoy quite the same level of respect and regard in the U.S. Certainly it is used for both business and vacation travel with some trains boasting bubble top cars to take in the view and sleeper cars for longer trips. However we don’t see the commitment to efficiency and infrastructure as with the bullet trains in Japan or the luxury and comfort seen with some European high speed trains. That aside, Teena and I were still quite looking forward to taking the The Adirondack to Montreal. After all, a train that traverses the Adirondacks in New York couldn’t be horrible… could it?

Our trip started at 30th Street Station in Philadelphia with a change over at Penn Station, New York before arriving at our destination. I have to say, many train stations still have that air and feel of the first half of the 20th century. That is in part due to existing art deco interiors. Unfortunately, 30th street station has chosen to do away with their long existing “clickety clack” arrival / destination board and replaced it with a more modern version sans the sounds of yesteryear. Boarding at both locations was very simple. This perhaps may change in the future given today’s international relations. However, it is quite a nice change of pace to not arrive hours before your departure time and experience the hurry up and wait atmosphere endemic to our airport TSA check points.

Likewise, the train interior was just as enjoyable. The seats have plenty of room for one to relax in. The seat tables don’t move when the person in front of you reclines. One is free to move about the interior unlike on an airplane. Plenty of room on the overhead shelf with no worries about finding a spot for your carry on, again unlike their aviation counterparts. All in all it makes for a very comfortable journey that makes the ten hour transit time quite enjoyable. Then of course there is the view. Quite soon after departing Penn Station, one is out of the city and traveling along side the Hudson River and the picturesque towns along the way. It feels like no time at all that you reach the Adirondacks and before you know it, you are traveling right along side Lake Champlain. Literally, one looks out the window to see the cliff face drop straight down into the lake. It does take quite some time at the border, however that is more than offset by the fact the border patrol agents come to you. You are relaxed in your seat waiting for them instead of standing and waiting in a long line.

The Amtrak experience was not all wine and roses. After crossing the border, we had several long delays before arriving in Montreal. We were advised that due to agreements between Amtrak and the Canadian Railway, Amtrak trains must yield for any Canadian train, even if that entails backing up (though Amtrak does get kudos for good communication about this). The trip back was a bit less enjoyable. First off, while they offer free Wifi, it’s only while in the U.S. and is pretty worthless even for free Wifi. I had planned on using the ten hour return trip to work on setting up this new blog and writing a couple entries. Instead I spent most of that just trying to get the pages to load and update the new layout. I didn’t even finish setting up the blog in that time let alone write a single word. Amtrak, if you are reading this, you need to work on that Wifi. The other negative was the dining car. The quality of the food was of that you find in a vending machine and sold at professional sport stadium prices. The gentleman serving the food was very polite and efficient but they quickly sold out of most everything on the first half of the return trip. When asked if they would be resupplied in Albany, the answer was “no”. Again, this is another aspect Amtrak needs to improve. Finally, there was little attention to the condition of the restrooms. While spacious, I prefer to not be met by the smell of stale urine when I have to utilize one. Certainly the onus rests partially on those using them but accidents happen and there should be more attention paid to these by Amtrak.

Overall, I’d say I’m 50/50 on recommending traveling by train. I would certainly give it another go but more than likely try a line out West to take in some of the scenery there and maybe experience a sleeper car. I wouldn’t tell someone to never go by train. There are certainly some big pluses to it. One just has to realize those positives have the potential to be offset by some negatives.

Eating on a Recommendation

While in Montreal, Teena and I decided to eat one night at a place recommended by Anthony Bourdain. That place? The simply if not comically named Joe Beef. Despite everything I read online about needing to make reservations a month ahead of time, we were able to get Saturday night reservations calling just the night prior. The restaurant itself is located outside of downtown Montreal on Rue Notre-Dame West. It appeared to be a one block oasis of dining and entertainment set amongst homes and apartments. For us, it was a perfect 25 minute walk from our hotel, but could definitely be longer depending on where you were staying in Montreal, so a cab (or Über) may be necessary.

We actually arrived a bit early and our table was also ready somewhat early from our designated reservation time. One immediately notices how warm, cozy, and intimate the establishment is, especially in regards to the table next to you. The menu, wine list, and drink list is written on a chalkboard in French and difficult to read in the dim lighting. Not to worry as the wait staff have the menu pretty much memorized. I can see how some may not like the atmosphere. It could be considered claustrophobic and you can’t help but hear your neighboring diner’s conversation. If you are one who likes your dining establishments somewhat standard, this may not be the place for you. I know my father would be irritated and might lend to the concept of the “rude American”.  I started off with the Oysters. They had a selection of three kinds from various Canadian locals. Unfortunately, other than the one’s from Prince Edward Island, I don’t remember where the other two were from. I opted for a half dozen equally divided amongst the three. All fantastic. Admittedly, I’ve been on an oyster kick since my initiation to them almost a year ago in Vancouver. I also guess it’s hard to mess up oysters unless you let them sit for days in the heat before serving them.

My main entree was related to me by our waitress as a “beef brisket” and in actuality it was more in line with a beef burgundy. I wish I could say I liked it as much as my oysters. I found the beef to vary between dry and less dry. The vegetables were good and would have been even better if the stock was not so bland. Overall, I felt let down by the entree.

Their wine list is extensive and I have to commend them on this. You could find any type of wine to pair well with your meal and even wines to pair with contrasting meals as Teena had a white fish entree. As we were both in the mood for a red, the 2014 Christopher Pacalet Chenas was a nice, light beaujolais that complimented both our meals well.

In summary the staff, oysters, and wine are great and the atmosphere is dependent on the diner’s tastes. As for the entrees, to be fair since I’ve only dined there once, I’ll say are hit or miss. While I’m an avid fan of Anthony Bourdain, I have to admit, I was expecting to be blown away by this meal and I just wasn’t.

Lambics- Mort Subite

For those who love beer and aren’t scared to try something very different, give a lambic a try. After tasting them, you may question if these are really beers and I assure you they are. Lambics are brewed in the Pajottenland region of Belgium southwest of Brussels and in Brussels itself at the Cantillon Brewery. As opposed to other beers, which are fermented with carefully cultivated strains of brewer’s yeast, lambic is fermented spontaneously by being exposed to wild yeasts and bacteria native to the Zenne valley in which Brussels lies. This process gives the beer its distinctive flavour: dry, vinous, and cidery, usually with a sour aftertaste.

I’ve had numerous lambics in the past and I’ve found them to be too sour for my taste. Mort Subite or Sudden Death was a nice change for me. Don’t let the name fool you, it actually has a low alcohol content of 4.5 percent. What makes me like this lambic over others is that it has a perfect balance of sweet and sour. It’s starts off sweet with raspberry flavors and finishes tart. Just enough of each to make it very interesting and enjoyable. Again, if you like your beers standard and bland, this is probably not for you. However, if you have braved the variety that is out there such as IPA’s, porters, and wheat beers and want something very different, give a lambic a try, especially this one.